Cooling and overheating
High-temperature shutdowns, restricted flow, tired raw-water pumps and blocked strainers. The most common category by a distance, and usually the cheapest to fix early.
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Something’s wrong and the season is running. We diagnose it properly, tell you what it costs, and get the unit back to full operation — not patched to September.
Right now
Stop running it. A stabilizer that’s throwing a code is telling you something is outside its operating limits, and continuing to run it is how a repair becomes a replacement.
Then send us three things: the model and serial number off the plate, the exact code or message on the display, and what the boat was doing when it appeared. That’s usually enough for us to know what’s wrong and what to bring — which is the difference between one visit and three.
Common faults
Most of what goes wrong falls into a handful of categories, and most of it is fixable in a single visit if it’s caught before the unit is run hard on a bad component.
High-temperature shutdowns, restricted flow, tired raw-water pumps and blocked strainers. The most common category by a distance, and usually the cheapest to fix early.
Slow spool-up, brake not releasing, weeping fittings or a spent accumulator. Often shows up as a unit that runs but never quite gets to speed.
Power supply faults, wiring corrosion at the connections, display or communication errors between the unit and the helm.
New sounds from a sealed system are worth taking seriously. We assess it before it becomes a bearing or flywheel job.
Salt left standing on external hardware, spent anodes, or a rinse-down routine that got skipped over a season. Usually preventable, occasionally expensive.
The unit runs but the boat still rolls, or performance dropped and nobody can say why. That’s a diagnostic job, and it’s one we’re good at.
How it works
No surprise invoices. You approve a number before anyone opens anything up.
01
Model, serial, fault code and what the boat was doing. We’ll tell you on the phone whether it’s safe to run in the meantime.
02
We come to the boat, confirm the fault and identify the cause — not just the symptom the display is reporting.
03
You get the cause, the fix, the price and the timeline. Nothing proceeds until you say so.
04
We complete the work, run the unit under load and confirm the fault is cleared before we call it done.
The diagnostic visit is billed separately and is credited against the repair if you proceed with us. Rate depends on your location — we’ll quote it when you call.
Common questions
Ask us first. Some faults are cosmetic and some will turn a repair into a replacement if you keep running through them. A two-minute phone call settles it, and it’s free.
We aim to call you back the same day on an active fault, and to get aboard within a few days depending on where you are and how the schedule sits. Tournament weeks and peak season we do our best to prioritize — tell us if you’re up against a date.
Depends on the age of the unit, the cause of the failure and your coverage. We’ll tell you honestly whether it’s likely to be a warranty claim before you spend money — and we handle the paperwork if it is.
Yes. Most of what we repair, we didn’t install.
We’ll say so. On older units there’s a point where the repair bill approaches the cost of a current-generation replacement, and we’d rather show you that math than take the repair. Ask about the trade-in program if you get there.
Usually not. Most repairs are done in the water. We’ll tell you before we start if yours is one of the exceptions.
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